The John Muir Trail, heading up the South Fork of the San Joaquin River toward Evolution Creek

Today was my first day shared with the John Muir Trail/Pacific Crest Trail community, backpackers who get to know each other over the days and weeks. I don’t count, of course, as I’m just in for a short loop, but I pas many more foot travelers in this section. Some are friendly, others pass with barely a nod of acknowledgement.

Evolution Valley is a narrow forested valley, between about 9,200′ and 9,900′, with a couple of meadows and a rushing stream along its length. I’m happy to be here: on the John Muir Trail, in the John Muir Wilderness, heading ultimately toward Muir Pass tomorrow, and reading “Meditations of John Muir”, a book of his writings given me before I left by dear neighbor Althea to take with me into the mountains.

Four pack horses grazing in Evolution Meadow

Somehow I got into my head that my expected total mileage was about 70, and I wasn’t sure that I had food or stamina for that distance. Realizing that it’s to be closer to 60 miles, and I am carrying enough food for the days I need, allows me to be clear that I’ll carry on rather than turn back. As of tonight’s camp I’m just shy of half way.

My camp, just before the rain came, at the upper end of Evolution Valley

So now it’s nearly dusk and it’s raining gently and steadily. I feel quite vulnerable out here, as there’s no place to turn for shelter, and I must depend on what I carry with me, in a potentially extreme mountain climate. At the same time, with a well-made tent and a good rain jacket and pants, I have pretty much all that I need to stay safe and secure, warm and dry. This is life stripped to its basics – with no bathrooms, internet or chairs – and this is its intrinsic joy. Everything I need I carry with me. In return I pass through some of the most exquisitely beautiful landscape in the world.