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A Bike Inn in Mount Vernon, Oregon, in which we stayed one night as the only guests. Fresh eggs and beer in the fridge, and payment by donation.

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What’s to add here? Welcome to the rural mountain West.

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The nearest sign declares this to be a “U.N. free Zone”.

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How would you like to have your firewood delivered like this?

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A transcontinental tourer on the Trail. Ben Wegdam is from Holland (“where it’s always raining”) was riding a custom Koga carbon fiber bike with Rohlhoff 14-speed internal-gear hub and Ortlieb bags (“they’re the best”). Ben’s blog (in Dutch) is at www.bensdroom.nl